(by Giovanni Franco) (ANSA) – PALERM, JUNE 21 – GIANFRANCO MARRONE, “TASTY AND TASTY. INTRODUCTION TO GASTRONOMIC SPEECH” (BOMPIANI, PP.
350, 44 COLOR PLATES OUT OF TEXT, 25 EUROS).
“The play of forms and substances, in the kitchen, is often intertwined with that of appearances and likenesses, of visual masking even before taste.” And in the end: “No one can confuse food with food and the table is the center not only of family life but also of social life.” In short, chefs and sommeliers act in an open “dinner”, using a play on words. But is it possible to do politics in the kitchen? What does good beccafico sardines taste like? What’s the story of the napkin? How to fool the diner at the table? Can a dish explain how to eat? What’s the difference between western cutlery and Asian chopsticks? Where does the Piedmontese bathna caoda ritual come from? Are there any similarities between painting and cooking? What comes first, on the table, the palate or the brain, the eyes or the taste buds? How can food be communicated to society in which it is produced and consumed? What does it mean that man eats? These are some of the questions in the new book by essayist Gianfranco Marrone, “Tasty and tasty.
Introduction to gastronomic discourse “, has just been published by Bompiani. Marrone, a semiologist and professor at the University of Palermo, has been paying close attention to the language of food and cooking, taste and the table for several years. and he already has several titles on the subject (we only remember Gastromania, Semiotics of taste, After dinner in the same way). flavors, smells, shapes and colors, temperatures, textures, textures), hinting everywhere: from kitchen cracks to table rituals, from cooking techniques to tools to make them possible, from the choice of ingredients to the use of leftovers, to limiting yourself to the most obvious things ”.
‘Tasty and tasty’ can be considered as the synthesis of his thinking on the subject, the result of more than ten years of study and field research at the international level. “I have just returned from France,” adds Marrone, “considering the homeland of gastronomy, where I learned several lessons about the language of food, and found much interest and great curiosity. The French cook like the gods, they know how to eat.” and they also pay close attention to cuisines from all over the world, which are very well integrated into their menus. “
But what does communication of taste mean? “The food that speaks and the words to say it,” says the author, “influence each other, forming, in its warp, that set of perceptual and cognitive but also sociocultural phenomena that we close in the term ‘taste.’ signs, always and in any case, we cook many others, we ingest or give them, we expel the waste, and at the same time we comment on it, we judge it, we narrate it, transferring it to others, often to our guests, the set of meanings which, in speaking of it, sums it up ”.
The problem, however, according to Marrone, “is the culture of taste, which, although so fashionable in television, film, social media, etc., still does not receive adequate attention at the educational level and even university students “. “We open in Palermo a degree of communication and culture of food, which many operators in the sector have been asking us for a long time.” And the school? “A real high school of taste is in a phase of advanced planning at the national level. And there are already, even in Sicily, several institutes that are experiencing it.”
“This book, which reads like a good meal, helps a lot in that,” the professor smiles. (MANAGE).